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August 2025 PoE Accepted Work Shares
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Title: Donating clothes and other unused items.
Location: Marysville, Ohio
Other Information: Donated some gently used clothes and other household items.
EGC address to be rewarded: EbaE2mAaeCCAu27Up4rLYawWNQx2qimnse
By: Mel
PoE Score: 
Title: Vermicomposting
Location: Warren, Ohio
Other Information: Composted a very old package of broccoli. The broccoli was frozen and thawed a couple times to accelerate the decomposition.
EGC address to be rewarded: EbaE2mAaeCCAu27Up4rLYawWNQx2qimnse
By: Steve
PoE Score: 
Title: Local vegetable
Location: Kawagumba village
Other Information: Raising Nightshade Vegetables from Nursery Bed to Seed Beds 1. Starting in the Nursery Bed A nursery bed is a temporary, densely planted area used to grow seedlings until they’re ready for transplanting. Here’s how to start nightshade vegetables like tomatoes or peppers in a nursery bed: Timing: Start seeds indoors or in a nursery bed 6–8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area (e.g., for tomatoes, 8–10 weeks; for peppers, 8–10 weeks). Check your local frost dates to determine the best time. For example, cool-season crops like broccoli can be started 3 weeks before the last frost, while warm-season crops like tomatoes need 2 weeks after the last frost when nighttime temperatures are above 50°F. Soil Preparation: Use a well-drained, disease-free growing medium, such as a mix of potting soil and compost, in seed trays, flats, or small pots. Avoid garden soil to prevent soilborne diseases. The soil should be loose, nutrient-rich, and have a neutral pH. Sowing Seeds: Plant seeds ¼–½ inch deep in the nursery bed or trays. For tomatoes, plant 2–3 seeds per cell and thin to the strongest seedling. For peppers, sow seeds ½ inch deep, spacing them 1–2 inches apart. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Germination: Maintain a daytime temperature of around 70°F and nighttime temperature of 60°F. Ensure 6–8 hours of direct sunlight or use grow lights placed 6–8 inches above seedlings to prevent legginess. Germination takes 7–14 days for tomatoes and 10–20 days for peppers. Care in the Nursery: Water gently to keep the soil surface moist for young seedlings. Once they develop 2–3 sets of true leaves, water only when the top inch of soil is dry. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions (e.g., a few hours outside daily for a week) to reduce transplant shock. 2. Preparing the Seed Bed The seed bed is the final planting area, typically a raised garden bed for nightshade vegetables, which provides better soil control and drainage. Here’s how to prepare it: Site Selection: Choose a sunny location with 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, good drainage, and protection from strong winds. Avoid areas near trees that compete for water and nutrients or shade the bed. Building the Bed: Construct a raised bed 4–6 feet wide and at least 12–18 inches deep to accommodate deep-rooted nightshades. Use untreated wood (e.g., cedar, redwood) or recycled plastic to avoid chemical leaching. Line the bottom with landscape fabric or cardboard to suppress weeds, and consider hardware cloth to keep out burrowing pests. Soil Mix: Fill the bed with a mix of 50–60% topsoil and 40–50% compost. Ensure the soil is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling, avoiding clay-heavy or sticky soil. Add organic matter like well-rotted manure for extra nutrients. For acid-loving plants, use ericaceous compost. Weed Control: Lay down cardboard followed by landscape fabric to prevent weeds like quack grass. Mulch with straw or wood chips after planting to retain moisture and further suppress weeds. 3. Transplanting to the Seed Bed Timing: Transplant seedlings to the seed bed after the last frost date when nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F for tomatoes or 55°F for peppers. Spacing: Space tomato plants 18–24 inches apart and pepper plants 12–18 inches apart to ensure air circulation and prevent disease. Use intensive planting (e.g., square foot gardening) to maximize space, planting 1 tomato or 2–3 peppers per square foot. Planting: Dig holes slightly deeper than the root ball, place seedlings in, and backfill with soil. For tomatoes, bury the stem up to the first set of leaves to encourage root growth. Water thoroughly after planting, but avoid mulching over the soil immediately to prevent interference with soil warming. Support Structures: Install trellises, cages, or stakes for tomatoes and taller pepper varieties at planting time to support their climbing or sprawling growth habits. This prevents stem breakage and improves air circulation. 4. Post-Transplant Care Watering: Water deeply and consistently, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Check soil moisture a finger’s depth below the surface, especially during warm or windy weather. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for efficient watering. Fertilization: Apply a slow-release fertilizer about a month after transplanting, following label directions. Top-dress with compost mid-season to replenish nutrients, especially after harvesting early crops. Thinning and Maintenance: Thin any direct-sown seeds (if applicable) to prevent overcrowding, which can stress plants and reduce yields. For example, thin pepper seedlings to 12–18 inches apart. Monitor for pests like cabbage worms and use row covers or organic treatments like BT if needed. Succession Planting: After harvesting early crops (e.g., radishes), replace them with nightshades or other vegetables from the nursery bed to maximize space and extend the growing season. Additional Tips Nursery Bed Benefits: A nursery bed allows you to grow extra seedlings densely, saving space and money. They can be transplanted to fill gaps in the seed bed as space becomes available (e.g., after harvesting early crops). Companion Planting: Pair nightshades with beans, which fix nitrogen in the soil, or with herbs like basil to repel pests. Avoid planting tomatoes near potatoes, as they share similar pests and diseases. Common Mistakes to Avoid: Planting in poorly drained soil, which causes root rot. Using treated lumber, which may leach toxins into the soil. Overcrowding plants, leading to poor air circulation and disease. Placing tall plants (e.g., tomatoes) in front of shorter ones, blocking sunlight.
EGC address to be rewarded: EYxkPXXwQctn6GMxrMf63GMVXqbq5E2bwo
By: John
PoE Score: 
Title: Vermicomposting
Location: Warren, Ohio
Other Information: More unused and rotting lettuce to help the worms feed the new lettuce.
EGC address to be rewarded: EbaE2mAaeCCAu27Up4rLYawWNQx2qimnse
By: Steve & Mel
PoE Score:
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